Not only could jewellery create or represent the personality of wearers, but it also enhanced the satisfaction of those who received it. Jewellery is often used as a gift to express love and all feelings on many occasions. Van Cleef & Arpels, a French jewellery house, was founded because of the love of a couple. Today, their love has spread all over the world.
Van Cleef & Arpels are surnames of Alfred Van Cleef, son of a gemstone cutter, and Estelle Arpels, daughter of a gemstone merchant. They fell in love and finally got married in 1895. Later, they founded Van Cleef & Arpels to create something that would last forever together.
Alfred worked on the brand with Estelle’s three brothers. They finally succeeded in opening the first branch at Place Vendôme. Today, this area has gathered all the high-end jewellery brands and become one of the most luxurious places in Paris, France.
As Love is the beginning of the brand, Love has been the primary inspiration in designing jewellery. On each special occasion, Van Cleef & Arpels would present a theme-based High Jewellery collection. In 2019, the brand chose Romeo & Juliet as their crucial concept, which you can also read here.
Van Cleef & Arpels also mastered and specialized in designing each gemstone. Pattern and proportion played an important role in the aesthetic of the jewellery. Because of its small size, the sophisticated skills of experienced artisans are required.
Le Secret is 2017’s High Jewellery collection. It narrates a simple story through the shapes and forms of natural plants, with a secret like the collection’s name. However, the secret behind each piece of jewellery is not complicated; it is a small special detail. For example, the action of floral petal picking was translated into the mechanics of the brooch (above).
This concept has been applied to every piece of the collection. Each piece of jewellery contains different surprises, which Van Cleef & Arpels has presented through this video.
Because of the distinguished love intertwined in the brand’s DNA, people have chosen Van Cleef & Arpels as their symbol of affection. Not only ordinary people but also international royalties are their clients. One of the most iconic couples was, nonetheless, Wallis Simpson and Edward VIII.
Mrs Simpson was then gifted several pieces of jewellery by Edward VIII, King of England. From the early days, their love blossomed until the final time King Edward VIII abdicated the throne. The jewellery of Van Cleef & Arpels captured their exceptional love through pages of history.
Van Cleef & Arpels’s archives showed that Edward VIII had always worked closely with the brand to design and ensure that each piece of jewellery was perfect for his beloved. This pendant, Houx Clip (below), was created in late 1936, the same year King Edward VIII abdicated the English throne.
The body contains two holly leaves using the technique of a gemstone mystery set. Later, this technique became sophisticated and exclusive to the brand. This pendant was gifted to Mrs Simpson during Christmas while the two were apart.
Houx clip retail card, 1936, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Archives / Houx clip, 1936, Private Collection
When Edward VIII abdicated the throne, he was titled Duke of Windsor. Then, he moved out of England and live in France. After that, the former king regally married Wallis Simpson so that she received the title of Duchess of Windsor. Jarretière bracelet (below) represented this critical event, its body engraved “For our contract 18.V.37”, which refers to the day of their wedding ceremony.
Jarretière bracelet retail card, 1937, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Archives / Jarretière bracelet, 1937, Private Collection
Along 35 years together, the Duke of Windsor always chose Van Cleef & Arpels to express his love to the duchess. He often ordered fresh ideas that included innovative techniques and processes, which later made a reputation and special recognition to Van Cleef & Arpels until today.
From the beginning of the love of an ordinary couple to one of the most scandalous love stories in history, there are thousand of knowledge and wisdom to recall. For over a hundred years of Van Cleef & Arpels, Love has undoubtedly played the most critical role, but with particular attention to little details that help make the brand still exist and be successful today.
Cadenas® watch retail card, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Archives / 1st drawing of the Zip necklace, circa 1938, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Archives
sources :
- https://www.vancleefarpels.com/me/en/la-maison/icons/legends-of-van-cleef—Arpels/22-place-vendome.html
- https://www.vancleefarpels.com/ww/en/la-maison/icons/Iconic-clients/the-duchess-of-windsor.html?55click=Highlight
- https://www.vancleefarpels.com/ww/en/nanosites/alhambra.html#!/collection
- https://theadventurine.com/culture/jewelry-history/the-story-of-van-cleef-arpels-ballerinas/
- https://www.bizzita.com/inspiration/10-fun-facts-about-van-cleef-arpels-that-you-did-not-know/
- https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-history-of-the-iconic-van-cleef-arpels-alhambra-collection#:~:text=Of%20all%20the%20jewellery%20motifs,Estimate%20CHF4%2C000%E2%80%936%2C000.
PILYNN SIRIPHANICH 
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